Do you want to teach your Dog to ‘Sit’/'Stand’/'Down’ when you are 20 feet or further away from your dog?

There is a difference between asking a dog to ‘down’ when you are standing next to it or having it ‘stay’, then walking away, waiting for ten seconds and then walking back to deliver a treat – and accomplishing these same behaviors when you are 20 feet away from your dog and asking them to ‘sit’ if they are standing, ‘stand’ if they are sitting or going into a down position if they are sitting or standing.

Most obedience training cues are given when the owner is next to the dog with the exception of the recall cue.  Historically most of the dog training disciplines that use distance commands such as field trials have used shock collars to get the results they want.  The premise of this learning is that the dog is told to do something at a distance and if they ignore the cue then the owner/handler applies an electric shock. The dog learns to do the behavior to escape or avoid an unpleasant if not painful stimulus.

There are far more pleasant ways to teach distance obedience behaviors. Last Saturday, at The DogSmith Training Center, in one 10 minute session two German Shepherds being handled by their owners had their dogs sitting and ‘downing’ with no food lures when they were 6 feet away from their dogs.  Although the duration of the behavior was very short it did show that with guidance and a systematic approach most pet dog owners can effectively and efficiently teach their pet dogs a high level of distance obedience. The duration can be added later.

The behavior was built one step at a time. As the dogs became familiar with the rules of the game and understood that great reinforcement was available to them for getting “it right” their learning became faster and faster .

When starting this  training with a pet dog with the goal of the dog sitting or ‘downing’ or standing from a distance, the first behavior criteria on the ladder must be 97% reliable. The dog must already be able to demonstrate the behavior without a food lure when the owner is standing by their side or in front of them. The behavior should be under the control of both a verbal and physical cue, not the physical cue created by the lure mechanics but the final finished product cue.

Example:

Goal – To have your dog go into a ‘down’ position when you are 20 feet away using a verbal cue ‘down’ or a simple hand signal for ‘down’

The first behavior criteria is built on the premise that the dog will already respond to a verbal  “down” and a simple hand cue “down” when the  owner is in an upright position.  This behavior should also have a built in duration of 30 seconds and be on a release cue of “okay”. The owner should not have to lure the dog down with food in their hand or use their entire body as a prompt to motivate the dog into a ‘down’ position. The dog should be comfortable sitting for duration of 30 seconds on an interval schedule of reinforcement no more than every 10 seconds.

Step 1

Take half a step away from the dog and ask the dog to ‘down’ using both the hand signal and the verbal signal.

As soon as the dog goes ‘down’ Click or say ‘Yes‘ and step back to the dog and deliver reinforcement. The dog should not have the time to get up and break the behavior. The reinforcement should be delivered to the dog in the ‘down’ position.

Repeat Step 1, 5 times

The dog should be successful on all five occasions. If they are not, then the likelihood is that the initial behavior criterion is not in place.  Since the dog will already respond to a verbal “down” and a simple hand cue “down” when the owner is in an upright position the owner should not have to lure the dog down with food in their hand or use their entire body as a prompt. The dog should be comfortable sitting for duration of 30 seconds on an interval schedule of reinforcement no less than every 10 seconds.

Step 2

Take a full step away from the dog and ask the dog to ‘down’ using both the hand signal and the verbal signal.

As soon as the dog goes ‘down’ Click or say ‘Yes‘ and step back to the dog and deliver reinforcement. The dog should not have the time to get up and break the behavior. The reinforcement should be delivered to the dog in the ‘down’ position.

Repeat this 5 times

Step 3

Take 2 full steps away from the dog and ask the dog to ‘down’ using both the hand signal and the verbal signal.

As soon as the dog goes down Click or say ‘Yes‘ and step back to the dog and deliver reinforcement. The dog should not have the time to get up and break the behavior. The reinforcement should be delivered to the dog in the down position.

Repeat this 5 times. Do not progress from this stage until you have 5 correct behaviors out of 5 attempts. This is the important step and may prove to be the most difficult step to get past.  A couple of things may happen.

The dog may be confused, you have now moved further away than ever before. This is a new behavior for the dog. The dog may try to get closer to you back into the normal position the dog is in when being asked to ‘down.’
At this stage you may have to reintroduce a more exaggerated physical cue to encourage the dog to go ‘down.’ Start off by just bending at the waist and using your hand to help motivate the dog into a ‘down’ position. This prompt can be faded later on.
If you have to use a full physical cue, your body bending over and knees bending over to get the dog to drop into the ‘down,’ the dog may pop forward thinking there is food in your hand. Be persistent, the dog will “get it.” Use a happy upbeat voice to encourage the dog into position.
If you cannot stop the dog coming towards you then go back and find a middle criteria Such as one and a half steps away from the dog.

When you are comfortably moving back a step at a time, doing sets of five behaviors at each step, you should work on fading all the prompts that you had to reintroduce at Step 3 when you reach a distance from your dog of 6 steps.

You will have to repeat this criterion for each new distance behavior you teach.  When you have some solid distance behaviors for ‘sit’/'down’ and ‘stand’ then you can work on having the dog switch between behaviors with you at a distance. Do not expect that if you can have your dog ‘down’ from ten feet reliably that you will then at ten feet be able to put the dog back into a ‘sit’ from a ‘down.’  You will have to reduce your distance from your dog to develop this behavior.

Niki Tudge is the owner and founder of The DogSmith, America’s Dog Training, Dog Walking and Pet Care Franchise. To find your local DogSmith or learn more about becoming a professinal dog trainer visit www.DogSmith.comNiki achieved her Canine Behaviorist Diploma in England and Dog Obedience Training Diploma in the US. Niki is an Endorsed member of the National Association of Dog Obedience Trainers and a professional member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and The Association of Animal Behavior Professionals. Niki is also certified by the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers. You can reach Niki via email at NikiTudge@DogSmith.com or www.DogSmith.com
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The sit and drop are only two exercises that we teach our dogs in dog obedience training. Walking, stays and recalls are equally important.

Walking

You can teach your pup to walk on a loose lead using two positive reward training methods.

Try this retraining exercise if you have a dog that tries to pull your arm out of its socket. When the lead goes stiff, stop in your tracks. Wait for the lead to go slack, call the dogs name and click and treat as he comes to you. You may find it takes an hour to walk down the garden path to the front gate. The dog will get to understand that a loose lead is more rewarding than a tight lead fairly quickly.

holding a few small tasty treats in one hand, the leash and the clicker in the other hand we are going to lure the dog to walk close to us. The hand with the food should be the hand nearest the dog. So, dog on the left, food in the left hand. Working the dog on both sides has huge advantages if you wish to participate in the fun sport of dog agility and I recommend you work this exercise with the dog on either side as long as you remember that the food treats must be on the same side as the dog.

Start with the dog sitting or standing in front of you. Get the dog focused on the treats in your left hand and start walking backwards. Make a click and slip one of the treats out of your fingers so the dog can take it every three paces. Make certain the dog is staying with you and is following the hand with the food treat.

With the dog following the food in your hand, make a quick 180 degree turn so that the dog is now on your left, snuffling at the food still in your left hand, and you are walking forwards. You still need to click and treat every three paces. The walking backwards is slowly faded out at the start until you can start with the dog sitting or standing at your side.

You can now take more steps before you click and treat the dog. Over a period of time you will stop using food in the hand but will have the dog following a clenched fist that smells like it may have food in it. When the dog stays by your side you can click and treat when you come to a stop and you introduce the sit command as you come to a stop.

Click and treat only if your dog sits as you come to a stop. You may need to take one or two steps after you give the sit command. Watch the dog and if you see he has heard and sits, then you need to stop immediately as well.

Stays

Part and parcel of any dog obedience course is the sit and the drop stay, and is fairly simple to teach the pup. You start with the dog sitting next to you on your left. Place your right hand across your body and right in front of the dogs face, say the word STAY firmly and, stepping off on the right foot, take a step around and in front of your dog.You should now be about about 1 meter away and facing the dog with your right hand in the dogs face.

You stay in front of the dog for the count of 5 and then step back and around to the dogs side. Click and treat if the dogs rear did not move. Repeat this exercise several times and again do not over do it. Train in several short sessions usually about 10 minutes is adequate.

Extend the time you are standing in front of the dog but do not extend the distance at the same time. When you are able to stand in front of the dog for say 20 seconds, step out 2 meters, but drop the time count to 5. Build the time slowly up to 20secs and then step out to 5 meters but go back to a counting up to 5. Then go back to 2 meters for 10 seconds, and so on.

You can develop the sit stay and the down stay in the same way. If at any time the dog moves, take a quick break and then restart at a shorter distance for 5 seconds and rebuild your time and distance.

RECALL

Have you taught your dog its name? If you have already taught your dog its name then the informal recall has already been instilled into your dog. Your dog must come to you when you call its name. We now need to proof the recall with distractions.

Take a b reak between teaching the stays and this exercise.You must not do this exercise immediately after working the stay exercise as you will be confusing the dog one minute he is expected to stay put, the next you are telling him it is ok to move towards you. The idea is to teach the dog that the word stay means wait until I come back to you and your stay for a recall command is wait, which means wait until I call you.

The recall is started with the dog in either a sit or stand next to you. I personally do not mind but if you are working towards wanting a champion obedience trial dog then you will want to choose the position required in trialling situations this is most usually sitting.

With the dog next to you, give him the Wait command and step around in front of the dog and take a step backwards. Keep your hand out in front of the dog. This will be about one meter in front of the dog, and you will be facing the dog.

Before you call the dog, ensure he is looking at you. Call his name and add the word come Rover come and slap the front of your thighs with your hands. Do not attempt to train the recall if the dog is distracted by a squirrel or the neighbours cat.

You can use a tug toy if you have a good tugging dog. Iinstead of slapping your thighs,you wave the tug toy and get him charging towards you and reward him with a tug game.

Once again, you need no use short training sessions, repeating this exercise several times. Do not let the dog get bored. Six 10 minute seasons in a day is infinitely better than 60 minutes once a day.

You must extend the time and distance for this exercise the same way as for the stay.

If you find the dog is slow in coming into you, when you call his name, immediately spin on your heels and run in the opposite direction calling excitedly. Click and treat as the dog gets to you and use the tug toy if necessary.

The dog may run past you. If he does, turn 180 degrees and run in the other direction. Watch over your shoulder and as the dog gets close, spin around and encourage the dog to come right to your legs and have him sit in front of you.

As your dog begins to understand the exercise, you can start extending the distance and get further away from him. Try to resist crouching down when you call your dog. Rather make yourself as tall as you can when you call him in. Crouching makes you look smaller and less interesting to the dog.

If you have already read my other article on the basics, then you now have now taught basic dog obedience exercises that will have your dog sitting, dropping, walking on a loose lead, staying where you put him, and running to you fast when you do a recall.

You need to keep repeating these exercises continuously and consistently. The more you do, the greater will be the dogs understanding, and the stronger the behaviour will be.

Nev Allen is a dog trainer with 30 years of experience and he is now sharing this experience to help you make your puppy a good, happy and well trained obedient dog. Visit my blog for more detailed dog obedience training and clicker training articles.
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Potty training your dog doesn’t have to be a difficult task. There are many methods for potty training your dog.  Choosing a method can be overwhelming but rest assured that most methods are equally effective.

The crating method is a simple method based on the theory that dogs won’t soil in their eating and sleeping area. This method requires that you acquire a crate that is sized appropriately for your dog. You will want to choose a crate that is just big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down. It is important to remember that a crate that is too big will not be effective for potty training because it will allow your dog to establish an area for relieving himself that is separate from where he spends the rest of his time. Crates can be purchased in most pet supply stores. They come in many different types including ones made of nylon, plastic, or metal. Crates come in several sizes and can accommodate dogs of just about any size. You can also purchase a divider for your crate which is useful if you are potty training a puppy because you won’t have to buy a smaller crate.

Once you have a crate, you can begin potty training your dog. The keys to using a crate for potty training are to anticipate when your dog will need to go out to relieve himself and to keep the dog crated when you are not able to supervise him.

To begin the potty training process, take your dog outside to the designated potty area and use a phrase such as, “Go potty” or “Hurry up”. If your dog relieves himself, praise by saying, “Good potty” or “Good hurry up” and give him a treat. It is important that you praise and reward your dog immediately after he relieves himself so that he will associate the praise and positive reinforcement with going to the bathroom outside. If your dog does not relieve himself, bring him back inside and confine him in the crate. Keep him crated for 2-3 hours and then take him outside to the designated potty area ask him to go potty. If he relieves himself, reward him with verbal praise and offer him a tangible reward, such as a treat. If your dog does not relieve himself, return him to his crate and repeat the entire process until your dog does relieve himself. It is crucial that you remember to praise and reward your dog each time he relieves himself in the designated potty area.

Once you have had your dog relieve himself in the designated potty area, you can start to give your dog more room to play. You can do this gradually by first moving your dog into a larger fenced in area such as an exercise pen.  Continue the same process of taking your dog outside frequently and praising and rewarding him if he relieves himself outside. After your dog does this successfully a few times you can increase the area in which the dog is confined again. Continue to increase the area your dog is allowed to roam as well as the amount of time between trips outside until your dog is given free reign of the house and is able to refrain from soiling in the house for several hours.

The crate training method has both its advantages and disadvantages. One advantage is that it is a method that works very quickly and takes very little effort on the part of the dog owner. A dog’s natural instinct is to not soil in their eating and sleeping area so it is not difficult to keep them from doing so in their crate. Another advantage is that it is a method that works very quickly. A disadvantage to this method is that crates can be rather expensive. If you plan on using a crate throughout the dog’s life, then they are a good investment but if you only plan to use it for potty training, it is a pricey option.

Using a clicker is another other way to potty train your dog. A clicker is a small device that emits a clicking noise when you press a button. They are very inexpensive and can be purchased and most pet supply stores. The theory behind clicker training is that a dog will perform a desired behavior for the reward of hearing the clicking sound. It may sound unusual but clicker training is used by many dog trainers to teach behaviors. Dogs are not automatically excited by the sound of the clicker but that behavior is taught through a process called “loading the clicker”. Before you can begin any type of clicker training, it is important that you teach your dog to enjoy the sound of the clicker. This is known as loading the clicker and is done by pressing the button to make the clicking sound and when your dog responds to the sound, reward him with praise and a treat. Repeat this 15-20 times in a row for several days. By this time your dog will be responding to the clicker and you can use the clicker to begin potty training.

To potty train using the clicker method, take your dog outside to the designated potty area. Just like with the crating method, use a phrase such as, “Go potty” to encourage the dog to relieve himself. If he does so, reward him by clicking and giving him a treat. Again, it is important to click and treat immediately after the dog relieves himself so that he knows that he is being rewarded for relieving himself. If the dog doesn’t relieve himself, bring him back inside and wait an hour or two and then try taking him outside again. Unlike the crating method, you will need to keep a close eye on your dog when he is in the house. Watch for signs that he has to go out such as sniffing around on the ground. If you notice your dog doing this, take him outside immediately and see if he needs to relieve himself. If he does so, reward him by clicking and giving him a treat. After awhile your dog will realize that he is being rewarded for relieving himself outside and you will be on your way to having a potty trained dog.

There are also advantages and disadvantages to using a clicker to potty train your dog. One advantage is that you don’t need to purchase any expensive equipment for this method. A disadvantage is that you have to watch your dog very closely in between trips outside to ensure that they don’t relieve themselves in the house. Another disadvantage is that you need to teach the dog to respond to the clicker before you can begin potty training.

Paper training is a two step process for potty training your dog. Dogs are first trained to relieve themselves inside the house in a designated area such as on a newspaper. This behavior is trained the same way as with crate training and clicker training. You take the dog to a designated area and as them to “Go potty” or “Hurry up” and if they relieve themselves you praise and reward them and if they don’t you wait and hour or two and try again. Once you train the dog to relieve himself on the newspaper, you make the area of newspaper smaller and move it closer to the door. You continue to do this until you are outside and there is no more newspaper. Once this is achieved you have successfully potty trained your dog.

The advantage of paper training is that you don’t have to purchase any equipment for this method. You can use old newspapers or other old papers that you have around the house as the designated potty area. One disadvantage to this method is that it is a two step process so you will need to teach one behavior and then modify it until you have the desired behavior. Another disadvantage is that the first step teaches the dog to relieve himself inside the house and there is the risk that the dog may never learn the second part of the process.

There are a few general rules that apply to any method that you choose. You should watch your dog closely while potty training and do not give them an opportunity to fail. Watch for signs that your dog needs to go out and take them out quickly so that they don’t have a chance to soil in the house. If your dog does have an accident in the house, do not scold them. Clean the mess up quietly and don’t allow the dog to see that you are upset. They will not understand what they are being scolded for so it will not help the potty training process. Make sure you are giving your dog ample opportunity to relieve himself outside. Also, when your dog does relieve himself outside, be very generous with the praise and rewards. Make sure your dog knows that you are very happy with what he has just done.

Crating, clicker training and paper training are all effective methods for potty training your dog. All of them work relatively quickly and easily and, in most cases, will lead to having a potty trained dog in just a few weeks. All methods have there advantages and disadvantages and it is up to the owner to decide which method they think will work best for them and their dog. Whichever method you choose, it is important to be consistent and praise your dog when they relieve themselves outside.

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There are many areas pertinent to dog wellness but the one that is beneficial to having an obedient dog is obedience training.  Obedience training is an essential ingredient to a good dog-human relationship, and creates a happy, healthy relationship between dog and owner.

Before we get into the secrets let me share with you the positive aspects of training.

1.  Training will establish a safe and non-confrontational way for you to establish control. This is especially necessary for a dominant dog personality.

2. Pushy dogs that get on the furniture or nudge their owners for affection or petting are less dominant but still need to obey rules.  Training keeps them under control and lets them know their owner is the dominant one.

3.  Dogs descend from wolves, which live by rules and have a social structure. The pack operates under a single leader, with clearly defined lines.  Although dogs have allowed themselves to be domesticated by man they still hold the natural instinct to test their position. Training lets your dog know that you are the single leader and he must respect and obey your position in the pack at all times.  No matter the breed or how small your dog is he is still a dog, and must know his place in the family. This understanding is what makes for a happy owner and dog wellness.

4.  Training will strengthen and build a healthy relationship between you and your dog.

5.  Opens a clear line of communication between you and your dog.

6.  Sets rules and boundaries that educate your dog on becoming a dependable member of your family and society.

7.  Prevents the growth of unwanted unacceptable behavior such as nipping, growling, jumping up, chewing, and digging to name a few.

8.  Eliminates confusion because your dog will know his place and will come to respect yours.

9.  Training promotes a happy, healthy, confident dog eliminating problems such as separation anxiety, which is a serious problem and very common, often causing pet owners to give up their dogs.

10.  A dog or puppy with obedience training is a much safer dog.

11. Gains trust and mutual respect with your dog.

12.  Well behaved when you have visitors to your home or take him out.

13.  Obedience training gives your dog the crucial needs of exercise, mental stimulation and a bonding relationship with his owner. Another vital component to dog wellness.

14.  Reduces the risk of becoming locked in a dominance struggle with your dog.

15.  Helps to avoid stress and anxiety in the dog and the owner It is important to remember that obedience training is a step by step process that you build over time with your dog.  It doesn’t happen overnight.  Begin training your dog as early as possible, even as early as 3 months of age.

Secrets For An Obedient Dog

Never under estimate the power of positive reinforcement. In the work place we aware of 2 types of managers.  There is the manager that uses fear, loud vocals, and threats to get his employees to perform, and then there are managers that use a positive, good natured, calm approach. I personally have worked for both types of managers and let me tell you – there is no comparison!  A positive approach is not only less stressful but creates a happier, more productive employee, not to mention, an employee that will sincerely give more than 100% productivity and feel good doing it.  Positive reinforcement in obedience training contributes massively to dog wellness and has a high success rate. Your dog acts as your employee, and offering a positive environment with positive reinforcement will get you faster, more productive results, while at the same time building a strong and trusting relationship.

Timing

Giving your dog a treat for his good behavior is a great idea but the timing of it is most important.  If you wait too long, your dog is not able to associate the treat with his good behavior, which means your efforts are lost.  This same understanding applies to punishment for poor behavior;  The punishment needs to be immediate or your dog will have no idea why he is being punished, and too of this can cause you other problems later on.  When it comes to punishment, you must catch your dog in the act for the scolding to have a positive effect on his behavior, otherwise the punishment will not work toward your intended desire.

Dr. Nicholas Dodman (a wonderful veterinary behaviorist) gives us these principles toward effective training:

1. Training should not involve any negative or punishment-based components. There should be no yelling, no hitting, no chain jerking, no hanging, and absolutely no electric shock. Each session should be upbeat and positive with rewards for jobs well done.

2. Remember that the opposite of reward is not punishment; it is no reward. If you ignore unacceptable responses, your dog will not be rewarded for his failed response. Most dogs want to please their owners or, at the very least, to obtain highly valued resources such as food, toys, or attention.

3. Reward good behavior immediately. The reward needs to be immediate so the dog associates the reward with the behavior.

4. If praise is used as a reward, deliver it in high singsong tones, which are most pleasing for the dog. Use an enthusiastic voice.  If petting is to be used as a reward, it should be in a way that the dog enjoys, such as stroking the dog’s hair on the side of his face in the same direction that it grows, or scratching him on the chest.

Methods and Consistency

There are several approaches to obedience training.

1. Only Trainer and Dog. You can hire a professional trainer who will house your dog, train him, and hand him back to you.  The pet owner will be taught the commands and the basic rules around the commands in order for the owner to carry out the consistency of pattern that the trainer has used and so your dog knows that you are now the one he must obey.  But the hard work and time is taken up by the trainer.

2.  Private or group training – dog and owner. You and your dog can attend private or group training classes in which you, along with your dog, learn the different commands and the owner learns how to handle his dog. Most of these training courses go on for 4-6 weeks; however take note that a dog is not fully trained in this frame of time and still requires that you further his training at home when the sessions are finished-especially if you are training a puppy. This method is a great way for you to also get your dog socialized around other people and other dogs which is another major area to dog wellness.  A well socialized dog makes for a well rounded dog and a happy owner and contributes highly to dog wellness.

3.  Just you and your dog. Nowadays there are plenty of wonderful pet sites that will guide you through the individual commands, and give you tips and tricks on how to best handle your dog.  Pet owners can also investigate this same method by the breed of dog they have in order to get tips on handling that particular breed.  This is also effective because different breeds have different personality traits.  Many of these sites give free information – all you have to do is follow the method and be consistent.

Whichever method you chose it is important and pertinent to your success that you remain consistent and on track.  If you have older kids, it can be very helpful if you train them on the procedures and allow them to help you out when you are busy or overwhelmed with other responsibilities.  The other benefit of this is that your kids will learn how to conduct obedience training, get closer to and earn respect from your dog.  It is vital that everyone in the family knows the command being taught and practice with the dog.  This will build a good relationship between the dog and other family members. Obedience training with positive reinforcement, along with timing and consistency are keys to having a well behaved, happy, healthy dog which means your life as a pet owner will be much enjoyed and well worth the work.

Remember that obedience training does not happen overnight and is a continuous process over a period of time. Start training as early as possible.  Puppies are not too young to start learning the rules and in fact, they should begin their training as soon as possible, with age appropriate measures that will expand and grow with age. These tactics will contribute highly to your dog’s wellness and will have you as a dog owner barking to a happy tune.

TIP: Did you know that patting a dog on top of his head is usually disliked by most dogs?

Michel’s family and pets live on the wellness side of life. She carries out her mother’s tradition of people and pet wellness including holistic care, natural remedies, and home grown healthy meals. People and pet wellness is life’s passion for Michel, who even heals her pets without a vet. She uses  natural health care for pets to contribute to dog wellness helping avoid unnecessary illnesses, costly bet bills, and building a strong immune system, while adding value to your dog or cat’s life.
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Housetraining Tips—Courtesy of  www.dogtrainingbybobmaida.com                        

The number one reason dogs are given up is because they are not housebroken.  The most effective way to housetrain a dog is to limit responsibility.  Keep the dog in your line of vision.  Keep ahead of the messes.  If the dog is given enough chances to go out, most if not all, accidents can be prevented.  When trying to limit the dog’s responsibility in the house, crate training is best.  When the dog/puppy is left alone or at night it should be in a crate.  The crate should be large enough for the dog to stand up, turn around and sleep comfortably.  The first step in housetraining is to teach the dog to keep his “den” clean. The dog will begin to see the crate as his/her den.  It is best to keep the dog out of rooms with soft surfaces until the dog is housebroken.  You can also use baby gates to limit the dog’s access to certain rooms.  When using the crate do not leave the dog alone for more than 5 hours at a time.  After 5 hours, have someone walk the dog.  It is okay to confine a dog overnight because they are sleeping and their systems slow down.  It is a good idea to crate the dog in your bedroom.  This gives the dog 6-8 additional hours with you.  Dogs crated in the bedroom where you are sleeping tend to be calmer and less needy, as well as less demanding.  You cannot trust your puppy to treat the whole house as his/her den until it’s fully mature.

If you adopt an older dog expect a transition period.  This period lasts about a month and the dog’s responsibility should be limited as if he/she was a puppy.  The change for the dog is quite stressful and the transition may affect housetraining.  Usually when a dog does make a mistake, it means that they don’t have the idea of housebreaking.  They have not associated the area they messed in as their den.  At times medical issues, sudden changes in diet, too much/too little or the wrong kind of attention can lead to housebreaking issues.  Please realize that a change in environment, whether an older dog or a puppy, may cause the dog to have accidents. This includes any pets you may already have at home.  Their environment is being changed by the arrival of a new dog or cat.  Be aware that if you have young children, a dog may urinate where diapers are kept or anywhere they leak.

The secret to housebreaking is to get the dog to adjust to a schedule.  Put the dog out at high points of probability.  For example, let the dog out:

upon waking up
prior to and after confinement
after playing
after a visitor’s  arrival  
after walks
before and after car rides
after accidents
if the dog is restless, trying to leave room, whiny, etc
after eating and drinking young pups under 3 months within 15 minutes
3 to 6 months—within 30 minutes
over 6 months within 40 to 60 minutes minutes

Of course some dogs may vary.  If dog slips up and goes before allotted time, do get it out that much sooner in the future.  If you catch the dog starting to mess in the house, do not punish the dog.  A negative sound may be needed with some training but definitely not for housebreaking.  Pick up the dog to interrupt it and rush it outside.  Never punish the dog for an accident.  Do not ask him/her if they did it or stick their nose in it.  Punishing or yelling at a dog is ineffective.  The dog will not connect your anger with mistakes.  The dog will only associate your presence with the mess. In doing so, you may cause the dog to be reluctant to relieve itself outdoors when you are around.  Nor should you ever correct after the fact for it may cause the dog to fear you or at the very least create stress and confusion. So when an accident occurs, think about WHY it occurred and see that you do not put the dog/puppy in a position where it can repeat that mistake.

When accidents occur, it is important to neutralize the odor with an enzyme type cleaner Nature’s Miracle is highly effective and sold in pet stores.  Do not clean pet messes with ammonia because it has the same properties as urine. Nor should you use a deodorizer for the odor cannot be totally removed. Dogs can smell something diluted a million to one. We can smell only a ten to one dilution. Therefore a chemical change in the odor must occur so the dog is not lured back to the spot again via odor. You can create your own enzyme type cleaner by mixing a solution that is 25% white vinegar and 75% water.

When you put the dog out make sure the dog has urinated and defecated.  Dogs should have a bowel movement after every meal.  If the dog has not gone keep it on a leash attached to your side or tied where you are sitting; and take it out every ten minutes until they relieve themselves.  Also make sure that is a calm environment where he/she can go.  Some dogs are excitable and tense up when they see other dogs or people.  Take them to an area where they have little visual distractions.  Do not say “good dog ” while the dog is going so as not to interrupt them.  Instead say it right after the dog has finished.  Also avoid playing with or petting the dog while out until it has gone.  You can train a dog to  to relieve itself in a certain spot in the yard provided you take it on lead to that area.  If you do not have a yard try to get your dog to relieve itself in a common area.  Be a good neighbor and pick up.  It is important to scoop in your own yard also so as to prevent odors.  It will also prevent the dog and you from having to tip toe through a “minefield”.  By following these steps you and your dog will have a happy and clean environment.

Courtesy of  www.dogtrainingbybobmaida.com 

www.DogTrainingByBobMaida.com Bob Maida is an IACP Certified Trainer (CDT) helping people and pets since 1969. Behavior problems, household manners, social behavior and basic obedience are all addressed in your home. Home..where you and your furry friend have to deal with everyday life. Areas currently served Lower Hudson Valley, New York including Westchester County along with New York City and Northern New Jersey
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